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Edgewater Chicago

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Discovering Mella Cafe: Eritrea's Warmth in Chicago's Edgewater

While waiting for me to wrap up some laptop repairs, a friend serendipitously led me to Mella Cafe (5418 N. Broadway), a true hidden gem in Chicago's vibrant Edgewater neighborhood. Tucked away on a bustling stretch of Broadway, this spot had eluded my radar despite opening its doors in June 2023. Founded by Yirgy Meles—affectionately called Gigi by her regulars—and her husband Negus Solomon, who immigrated from Eritrea to Chicago in 1995, Mella represents decades of perseverance and passion. After five years of meticulous planning and renovations, the couple transformed a modest space into a cultural haven, blending authentic Eritrean flavors with Italian and Ethiopian influences—a nod to Eritrea's colonial history and regional ties. The interior bursts with the bold reds of Eritrea's flag, creating an inviting, independent atmosphere where Gigi's philosophy of resilience shines through every detail. Gigi, who cherishes her role as both owner and community connector, has even hosted high-profile guests like U.S. Senator Dick Durbin for breakfast in August 2024, highlighting the cafe's growing reputation as a hub of hospitality.

Boasting a stellar 4.8/5 rating on Yelp from 30 glowing reviews, Mella has quickly earned praise for its Eritrean-Ethiopian fusion menu, perfect for brunch or lunch, and its cozy vibe that draws remote workers and locals alike. Reviewers rave about the "fantastic" fusion dishes, the welcoming outdoor seating, and happy hour specials that make it a neighborhood staple. It's no wonder—beyond quality coffee and light meals, the cafe offers indulgent gelato in assorted flavors and traditional sweets displayed in glass cases, all served in a space equipped with guest Wi-Fi and plenty of outlets for productive sessions or casual hangs.

This has swiftly become my go-to in Edgewater, especially when I'm dodging overpriced, greasy fast food. Here, I can save a few bucks while savoring fresher, more nutritious bites infused with heritage. On my visit, I dove into a lentil samosa—crispy and aromatic, paired with a creamy chutney that balanced spice with silkiness. I washed it down with a robust espresso brewed in the traditional style from a jebena pitcher, then capped it off with a flaky slice of baklava (order be damned). Everything hit the spot: flavorful, satisfying, and a far cry from the ordinary.

For those craving deeper dives into the menu, don't miss the traditional breakfast combo ($14), a generous sampler featuring a spiced egg frittata with onions, peppers, and tomatoes; fuul (mashed fava beans in a fiery berbere-tomato sauce); and kicha fitfit (chewy unleavened flatbread tossed in spiced clarified butter, optionally drizzled with honey or sour cream for a sweet-savory twist). It's communal, handheld perfection—gluten-free and vegan options available—and comes with complimentary warm, crispy bread to scoop it all up. Reviewers call it "homemade African comfort food" at its best, evoking the shared plates of East African dining.

Open most days except Mondays, with hours stretching until 8 PM for those late-night grinds or unwinding evenings, Mella Cafe is more than a spot—it's a slice of Eritrean soul in the heart of Chicago. If you're wandering Edgewater, make the detour; Gigi and Negus's hospitality will leave you lingering longer than planned.